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š1276ćš1323ćI'm Dana Brown, and I'm a surfer.
š1326ćš1389ćThis film isn't about a lifestyle, đ it's about life...
š1391ćš1439ćwhere style's just an option.
š1441ćš1497ćOnce you get the sand đ in between your toes...
š1499ćš1545ćyou can never leave the beach.
š1547ćš1593ćAnd once the surfing bug bit you--
š1595ćš1675ćYou get bitten by that, đ you can never leave.
š1739ćš1791ćSurfing is a 2,000-year-old pastime...
š1793ćš1857ćthat's become đ a multibillion-dollar industry.
š1859ćš1916ćStill, it's all about the wave.
š1919ćš1982ćWaves are this kind of đ unifying force in the universe.
š1984ćš2023ćThere's light waves, đ sound waves...
š2026ćš2132ćand ocean waves are the only form đ in which they're at a human scale.
š2135ćš2212ćThey move at a speed đ about as fast as we run.
š2215ćš2269ćThey're in this beautiful medium, đ the ocean.
š2271ćš2347ćAll it takes is,you know, đ just one wave--not even that.
š2398ćš2484ćYou know,just a moment đ that keeps pulling you back...
š2487ćš2540ćto have another moment.
š2567ćš2602ćAnd it never ends.
š2604ćš2671ćIt's a tribe of people đ around the world...
š2673ćš2719ćthat feed off of that energy.
š2721ćš2806ćIt's not a part of this world. đ You're stepping into liquid.
š2808ćš2911ćYou're stepping off of concrete ground đ and into an element...
š2913ćš3001ćthat is always changing đ and moving and surrounding you.
š3003ćš3053ćAnd it feels good.
š4709ćš4779ćWithout question, đ the best surfers in the world...
š4829ćš4911ćTheir zany neighbors, the seals, đ place a strong second...
š4913ćš4975ćfollowed by đ the perpetually mellow pelicans.
š4978ćš5023ćHumans, in comparison, suck...
š5026ćš5087ćbecause we need boards, đ wax, wet suits...
š5090ćš5190ćwe panic easy, and we're always đ convinced we'rejust about to drown.
š5192ćš5271ćSomehow that doesn't stop us đ because hell or high water...
š5274ćš5324ćwe're out there.
š5327ćš5409ćMany of us have nothing in common đ except this shared passion.
š5428ćš5488ćBut each of us began đ exactly the same way--
š5491ćš5536ćwith that first wave.
š5539ćš5625ćI think I first stood up in about 1 947.
š5627ćš5696ćI rode it all the way in, and I went, đ ''Uh-oh, I'm hooked.''
š5699ćš5768ćRan in the house-- đ ''Mom, you won't believe what I did!''
š5771ćš5845ćMy mom kinda-- đ You know-- ''Big deal.''
š5900ćš5967ćThe Teeny-Weeny Wahine Contest.
š5970ćš6078ćOkay, girls, get your wave count, đ and most importantly, have fun.
š6081ćš6166ćIt's not like soccer, đ with all the moms yelling on the sides.
š6188ćš6247ćThey're young and absolutely fearless.
š6250ćš6332ćThey could take three gallons of water đ up the schnozz and not even blink.
š6335ćš6412ćWelcome to the mini-extreme.
š6415ćš6505ćIt's really, really fun. đ That's what I like about it.
š6507ćš6553ćYou get to hang with your friends.
š6555ćš6608ćAnd I like the ocean, đ so you get to be in it a lot.
š6611ćš6649ćIt's kinda like you're flying.
š7242ćš7320ć- I don't like big waves, though. đ - Yeah.
š7323ćš7379ć- Why? đ - Because they scare me.
š7381ćš7455ćNot too big. đ Like, maybe six foot?
š7480ćš7549ćWaves seem big đ when you're four feet tall.
š7551ćš7629ćIt's still big when you're an adult, đ because it's a better story.
š7631ćš7695ćAnd finally, when you're old and alone, đ it's never big...
š7697ćš7743ćbecause it's ''gi-mungous. ''
š7772ćš7841ćHowever, there are those đ who don't
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