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I'm Dana Brown, and I'm a surfer.
(Subtitle Revised by HchC)

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This film isn't about a lifestyle,
it's about life...

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where style's just an option.

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Once you get the sand
in between your toes...

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you can never leave the beach.

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And once the surfing bug bit you--

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You get bitten by that,
you can never leave.

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Surfing is a 2,000-year-old pastime...

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that's become
a multibillion-dollar industry.

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Still, it's all about the wave.

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Waves are this kind of
unifying force in the universe.

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There's light waves,
sound waves...

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and ocean waves are the only form
in which they're at a human scale.

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They move at a speed
about as fast as we run.

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They're in this beautiful medium,
the ocean.

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All it takes is, you know,
just one wave--not even that.

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One turn.

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You know, just a moment
that keeps pulling you back...

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to have another moment.

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And it never ends.

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It's a tribe of people
around the world...

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that feed off of that energy.

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It's not a part of this world.
You're stepping into liquid.

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You're stepping off of concrete ground
and into an element...

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that is always changing
and moving and surrounding you.

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And it feels good.

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Without question,
the best surfers in the world...

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are dolphins.

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Their zany neighbors, the seals,
place a strong second...

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followed by
the perpetually mellow pelicans.

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Humans, in comparison, suck...

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because we need boards,
wax, wet suits...

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we panic easy, and we're always

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Somehow that doesn't stop us
because hell or high water...

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we're out there.

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Many of us have nothing in common
except this shared passion.

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But each of us began
exactly the same way--

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with that first wave.

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I think I first stood up in about 1 947.

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I rode it all the way in, and I went,
Uh-oh, I'm hooked.

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Ran in the house--
Mom, you won't believe what I did!

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My mom kinda--
You know-- Big deal.

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The Teeny-Wee
[...]
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